How to Pose Hands in Portraits

Hands-2Photo by algo

Sometimes the smallest things in a photo can impact the overall feel of the image.

I learned this important lesson the first time I photographed a wedding.

The grooms hands gave it all away.

On the day itself I thought the bride and groom were very relaxed an enjoying the day, but on getting the photos back I was immediately drawn to the hands of the groom. In virtually every shot they were clenched or grasping at the sleeves of his suit coat.

In showing the photos to others I found that quite a few of them noticed the same thing while others thought he looked stressed but couldn’t quite put their finger (no pun intended) on why.

I later found out that the groom was having second thoughts about what he was doing all day long. His hands told the story.

The hands and fingers are often giveaways to how the rest of the body is feeling.

How to Photograph Hands

1. When posing a subject pay particular attention to their hands and encourage your model to keep them relaxed and their fingers separated.

2. If your subject can’t seem to relax their hands – consider composing shots that don’t include the hands (head shots and upper body shots).

3. Sometimes the best thing to do with hands is to give them something to hold or do. Consider using a prop (as long as it adds to and is relevant the shot and isn’t distracting) or have them rest upon some other element in the shot (a leg, a chair etc).

4. Lastly – hands tend to look best when shot from the side. Front on shots of hands can often look quite blob like.

Do you pay attention to hands in your shots? How do you pose them? Share your tips.

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CLOSE UP (MACRO) Weekly Photography Challenge

This week your challenge is to take and share a photo/s on the theme of ‘Close Up’. The idea came from the many people who suggested that we do a Macro challenge on our Facebook Page.

Jocy’s frog by Kaitlin Moreno

I know not everyone has a camera or lenses capable of true Macro photography – so thought I’d make it slightly more general with ‘Close Up’ and hope that it’ll allow others to participate to the extend that their gear allows.

Need some tips and Inspiration? Here’s some tutorials and image collections from our archives:

Once you’ve taken your ‘Close Up’ Images – choose your best 1-2, upload them to your favourite photo sharing site and either share a link to them or – embed them in the comments using the our new tool to do so.

If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites with Tagging tag them as #DPSCLOSEUPto help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

Also – don’t forget to check out some of the great shots posted in last weeks KIDS challenge where there were some great shots submitted.

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Eye Contact Smiles and More [What I Learned from Shooting with Film: Part 5]

In this post Rachel Devine (author of our new kids photography eBook Click) ends her series on reasons learning photography on film cameras made her the digital photographer that she is today. Also Read previous posts on Shooting with Burst Mode, Natural vs Artificial Light, Embracing the Grain and Taking Cameras Everywhere.

One last thought to wrap up this little series of blog posts. With film, the shoots always had a limit. I needed to get my shots in a certain number of frames so I had to be pretty organized. I went in with a game plan. I would always try to get the sitting still and smiling at the camera shots first and out of the way for no other reason than I wanted to have as much film left over as possible to capture the real photos. Everyone asks for those eye contact / natural smile shots, so I do my best to get a great one, but for me, that is not what kid photography is about.

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Especially if the children I am shooting are pensive or active or anything other than prone to sitting still and looking at the camera. I want to document the real childhood of that child.

Looking back on my own family photos from childhood, there are very few where we are all lined up and smiling for the camera. About one of those semi-formal posed ones a year. Usually it was shot in the summer outside the beach house with my dad’s camera on a tripod and with the self timer.

It is neat to watch the family grow up through those photos, but they are not the ones I hunger for digging through all the old slide albums. I am looking for more moments to spark a memory other than my father yelling for us to all smile and look at the camera while he did the mad dash back from pushing the shutter to join us in the line.

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I want to find the images that tell a story within the confines of that little paper Kodak frame. Those images that as soon as I hold up the slide to the light suck me right back in time through those locked doors of fading memories.

And I want to leave those little future keys for my children to find in the images I am making of them as they grow. So I occasionally get the eye contact and the smiles, but often I get so much more.

The photos in this post are of my daughter were taken just a few days apart on this trip back to Virginia to visit family. I am thrilled to have the smiling shot and I will probably frame it, but the other two show how she really is on this journey. She is more pensive than the big grin would have you think.

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Gemma has always been a great traveler. She has been many places in the world with us and always up for an adventure. The last time we came to the states she did not waste a minute of her thoughts on Australia. I will always remember this trip back to the states as the first one where she had been in Australia long enough to start missing her home and friends. I can see it in her face in the other photos and it is one little thing that I will remember about her growing up…a milestone captured.  

For more on the topic of Kids Photogrpahy – Check out Rachel’s new eBook Click! How to Take Gorgeous Photos of Your Kids.

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Take the Fancy DSLR with You (almost) Everywhere [What I Learned from Shooting with Film: Part 4]

In this post Rachel Devine (author of our new kids photography eBook Click) continues to share her five reasons learning photography on film cameras made her the digital photographer that she is today. Also Read Part 1 on Shooting with Burst Mode, Part 2 on Natural vs Artificial Light and Part 3 on Embracing the Grain.

Back when I really got into photography, I would carry my Nikon FM2 with me everywhere. I also had a stash of film in my backpack. That camera body had a bit of a ding in the side and some scratches, but there were no light leaks and the lens was crystal clear so it was all good. There were no camera phones to capture the moments I wanted to capture.

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I still have my camera with me pretty much all the time and when I strike up a conversation with another mother at the park/zoo/school I almost always come to find out that they too have a DSLR… at home… in the closet… in a camera bag.

Most of the time they talk about how much they love photographing their kids, but they just haven’t had the time to practice with it and it is still on auto and they aren’t that happy with the shots they get anyway.

My advice is always the same:

Customize it:

It is a fancy camera and does so many different things for you. Obviously learning the basics of photography and techniques specifically related to photographing children is a must, but take the time to sit with your camera manual.

Break it up in parts and learn all the wonderful features. It can be really overwhelming and the urge to shove the camera and the manual with it back into the closet can be strong, but take it bit by bit. Learn the metering system one week and the next week figure out the focusing controls.

If you are shooting in JPEG (and I encourage beginners / parents-with-cameras to at least start there and forget about RAW for the time being) then customize the in camera picture settings so that the color, tone, contrast, saturation and sharpening settings are producing shots that are close to how you want the final image to look. It is like a mini-corner photo lab right in your own camera! If you are constantly having to scroll through menu settings to do the same action over and over again, research if your model of camera allows you to customize the actions of the actual buttons on the camera body. Many do and you will be able to set a one button click to do what you have been scrolling through the menu for before.

Live with it:

Life is the time to practice. Having the camera out and around the house not only encourages you to pick it up over the camera phone when photo ops arise, but the novelty for the kids will wear off. The more they are used to the camera, the less likely they are to make faces for it. (I do go into way more detail about my respectful way of working with kids in the eBook, Click!, but this is a start.)

Getting the camera out of the house with you and your kids is the best way to learn how to use it. Get to know how it feels in your hands. Make adjusting the buttons and controls all second nature.

Ditch that strip of camera brand advertising they call a strap and get a really great one. There are many styles of camera straps to choose from, but get one that makes carrying that thing more comfortable and you will be more apt to bring it along on your adventures. Also, invest in a really great camera bag.

There are so many new brands these days that you no longer have to look like you are heading out for a trek through the mountains when you carry your camera bag with you. Invest in a fixed focal length lens with a fast aperture to avoid needing a flash and to save space and weight. The 50mm f/1.8 is a great inexpensive one to start with.

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Work with it:

Move off Auto into Aperture or Shutter Priority. Baby steps. Give yourself projects and deadlines so that you have a reason to pick up the camera almost everyday. Try taking a photo a day of your kids with your DSLR or even just aim for a few shots a week if the daily goal is too much. You can even get your older kids involved by having them create a topic list of things for you to photograph. They will be happy to be helping and learning along with you.

Finally, protect your investment, but don’t be afraid to take it out and enjoy using it for what it was designed to do!

I always want to ask people when they tell me their DSLR is at home “Why did you buy the thing if you are not going to use it?” It sure is not going to take any wonderful photos inside the camera bag in the closet no matter how fancy it is.

For more on the topic of Kids Photogrpahy – Check out Rachel’s new eBook Click! How to Take Gorgeous Photos of Your Kids.

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How to See in Black and White [and how HDR can be a Powerful Tool for the Monochrome Photographer]

A Guest Post by Joseph Eckert

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The very first photographs were shot in black and white. Decades later, even after the advent of color, many photographers—especially those concerned with creating works of art—continued to shoot in black and white. The format remains popular even today: nearly every consumer-level digital camera has a black and white mode available (for outputting JPEGs directly from the camera in monochrome), and all digital darkroom editing suites have at least one (and usually multiple) means of changing a color photograph to black and white. Indeed, there are expensive plugins available for Photoshop that are entirely devoted to the process of converting a color shot into black and white, and there dozens of groups on Flickr and Picassa and 500px that are exclusive to black and white photography.

Why do black and white photographs continue to exercise this hold over the fancy of so many photographers (dabbling, amateur, and pro) when we have cameras and techniques at our disposal that can capture every color under the sun? We can produce photographs of spectacular color range, with arresting reds and blues and greens and yellows, and yet the simple power of an effective black and white shot can (arguably, of course) leave even the most brilliantly realized color shot in the artistic dust.

Why?

A large part of the reason, as I see it, lay in that very simplicity of the monochrome image. Removing the color from a shot changes the focus—it shifts the viewer’s attention from the colors to things that can be more abstract, less immediately noticeable, and it presents the world to us in a way that few of us are used to seeing it. It can, by the very removal of that familiar element, generate an intense amount of interest and a powerful feeling of drama that might otherwise be overwhelmed by the presence of the color. The prosaic can be made into something tremendously interesting, by changing it, in a sense, into something even more prosaic, something even simpler.

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As a result of the powerful appeal of black and white imagery, photographers will inevitably continue to try their hand at making monochrome photographs. But it isn’t necessarily as easy as you might expect, and not every color photograph will suddenly make a powerful, dramatic and artistic statement when converted into black and white. To create a spectacular black and white image you need to start at the very beginning, when you are first looking out on an interesting scene, before you ever press down on the shutter button.

A Shift in Sight

Most of us see the world in color. I do, and I’m very happy to have that ability. But to make the most effective black and white photograph possible, you need to develop the ability to abstract away those colors, well before you ever take the shot. The great black and white photographers of the past used to talk about “Seeing the world in black and white.” They weren’t referring to politics or some simple dichotomy of good and bad, but rather literally seeing it in monochrome, seeing it as it would appear once they processed the shot and had the black and white print in their hands.

A part of being able to see the world in black and white is pure, raw experience: the more black and white photographs you take, the better you will be able to understand what scenes and shots will work better in monochrome than in color. This can mean (and has meant, in the digital era) taking tons of color photos and then haphazardly trying the black and white conversion on some subset of them, hoping to get lucky and hit on one or two that really pop in black and white.

But you can short circuit this learning process—or at least help yourself on the way—by making yourself aware of what elements make the most impact in a black and white shot. Some of this is obvious, or at least may seem obvious, but the value comes from actually thinking about it, and considering these elements consciously as you shoot (until you reach such a point that you no longer even need to think about them, because they come so naturally to you). The elements include:

  • Shapes, Patterns, and Texture
  • Lighting and Contrast
  • Tone
  • Color

Wait—color? Let me explain the first few, and we’ll circle back to that last one.

Shapes, Patterns, and Texture

When you look past the colors in a scene, some of the first elements you’ll become aware of are shapes and repeating patterns, and texture. In the absence of color, these elements come to dominate the image, and can be a guide in your composition.

Look for interesting forms and juxtapositions of angles. Seek out triangles, in particular, and curves. Try to find shapes that match the Fibonacci Spiral, or at least conform loosely to the Rule of Thirds in the way they divide up your frame.

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Hunt for patterns—repetitive formations of structure. And then look closely for that break in the pattern. A brick wall is a great pattern, but it’s also boring, unless you have that scrawled bit of amazing graffiti on it (or whatever it may be that caught your eye and stood out from the repetition around it).

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Texture can really pop out of the image in black and white photography. Of course, color shots can have great texture as well, but there is just something about black and white that lends itself to really giving a visceral feeling of the roughness of that bark, or the uneven bumps of that concrete, etc. For example, consider the two shots below, the color version versus the black and white. In my opinion, at least (and your mileage, as always, may vary), the black and white version makes the textures almost come out off the screen, much more so than the color:

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And then, of course, look to combine all three—find repeating patterns of interesting shapes that have eye-catching textures.

Lighting and Contrast

When the color information is removed from a photo, the quality and efficacy of the lighting can take a tremendous hit—or it can be incredibly enhanced. I’ve found that soft lighting is less effective in black and white (generally), whereas strong shadows (creating great shapes and patterns) can really come out when seen in monochrome.

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In a way, “lighting” for black and white really means “shadows,” since we’re less concerned with that golden hue of magic hour and more interested in the way the light falls on our subject—that is, what unique shadows are created by that light source. Deep shadows have a character all their own, a character that can get somewhat lost in color shots and really make themselves known in black and white.

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Contrast follows logically from this. Areas of high contrast—the difference between light and dark—will particularly stand out in black and white shots. If what you are looking at has very low contrast, you will risk having a muddy or uninteresting shot when you convert it to monochrome, because there is nothing to grab the eye, nothing to guide the viewer through the composition. All the grays become the same, and you get a big, flat, gray shot.

Boosting contrast artificially in Photoshop can only help this so much: in reality, you want to change your composition, come back at a different time of day, or change the lighting, etc, in order to realize the contrast necessary to make your black and white image pop.

Tone

Tone is difficult to define and describe. It is one of those “know it when you see it” elements of photography. Broadly speaking, it is the feeling evoked by the photograph, by the combination of all the elements I listed above (shape, pattern, texture, light, contrast, etc). Tone can be dark and moody, like something out of a noir film, or can be light and airy, like a painting of a single cloud in an otherwise startlingly blue sky.

It is, holistically, the mood of the photograph.

Black and white photographs lend themselves to setting a powerful tone. In your initial composition, you can concentrate on determining what this tone will be by focusing on the elements I listed above, and then try to mentally abstract away the color.

Experience helps a great deal here, as does carefully looking over the great black and white photographs that other photographers have made before you. Pay particularly attention to how light and shadow can impact the mood of the shot—the tone—and imagine, as you work on your own shots out in the field, how shifting even a few steps left or right might significantly affect the tone.

In short time you’ll be able to look at a scene and get an immediate feel for the tone it will evoke in your viewers when they see it in black and white.

Color

This is an odd one. Color, for black and white photography? Well, if you convert your color shots to black and white in the digital darkroom, as I do, then color actually becomes quite important.

The process of converting a color shot into black and white involves, in most cases, making explicit decisions about the relative intensity the colors in your shot will be when translated into grayscale. You might make your blues nearly black and boost up the relative lightness your yellows and reds and greens in a landscape shot in order to give yourself that eye-catching, deep sky.

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If you keep this in mind when you are composing your shot, you can look for regions of strong color differentiation, and use that to, in effect, enhance the contrast of your final black and white shot. The intensity of the blues and reds in a single shot might be nearly equal, when viewed in color (not giving much in the way of contrast), but in the conversion process you can darken one and lighten the other, and create that deep sense of contrast that will pop so much in black and white.

Bonus Section: Using High Dynamic Range to Boost Your Black and White Photography

High Dynamic Range (HDR) photography is controversial and I won’t try to sway you one way or the other if you have strong feelings regarding how it is commonly used/abused in modern digital photography. However, few can deny that it can be a very powerful tool when composing for black and white imagery.

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This may initially seem counterintuitive. After all, a major draw of HDR photographs is that amazing, hyper-real color that seems to jump out of the screen or print at you. But HDR is really about enhancing the dynamic range of the shot—enhancing the difference between the darkest and lightest parts of the image, allowing more of each to be seen.

And it is, fundamentally, in the difference between the dark and the light where all the magic of black and white photography happens.

HDR can’t necessarily enhance the shapes in your shot, or help you with composition, but it can bring out more pattern and texture than a non-HDR image. It can also significantly increase the perceived intensity of the lighting in a given shot, and, overall, pull up the contrast (or make more room for the contrast to be effectively increased in Photoshop, etc).

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If you have always avoided HDR because of those highly overprocessed images that you can find anywhere on Flickr or Picassa, I strongly recommend you try it out for yourself. Keep in mind the strengths of HDR, and the advantages it gives you in scenes that would otherwise be impossible to capture in a single exposure. And remember that you don’t have to overprocess your shot like others do, if you don’t happen to like that effect. Instead, subtly tone map your exposures with an eye toward bringing out that amazing texture or shadow that you saw in person but couldn’t capture with one exposure alone.

Black and white photography, the oldest form of photography, is here to stay. Its unique qualities help ensure it will never completely die, no matter how amazingly accurate or vivid technology allows the colors in our shots to become. There is a very real power inherent in the best black and white images, a power that would often be lessened if that same shot were seen instead in color. By learning to see the world in terms of shape, pattern, texture, light, contrast, and tone, you can start making powerful black and white shots of your own.

Learn more about Joseph Eckert at his site josepheckertphotography.com.

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How to Photograph Silhouettes in 8 Easy Steps

Silhouoette-Image by Peter de Krom

I normally talk about the importance of using a flash when taking shots into the sun to give sufficient light to add features to your subject but there are also times when making your subject featureless apart from their outline against a bright background can be most effective – or when in other words silhouette is a worth exploring.

Silhouettes are a wonderful way to convey drama, mystery, emotion and mood to the viewers of your photos and often stand out in an album because of the combination of their simplicity but also the story that they convey. I love them because they don’t give the viewer of a clear picture of everything but leave part of the image up to their imagination to wonder about.

The basic strategy you’ll need to employ in taking silhouette shots is to place your subject (the shape you want to be blacked out) in front of some source of light and to force your camera to set its exposure based upon the brightest part of your picture (the background) and not the subject of your image.

In doing this your subject will be under exposed (and very dark, if not black).

There are a lot of very technical descriptions going around on how to take great silhouette shots that you might want to look up but let me attempt to run through some basic steps that should get you the results you’re after. In essence what we’re trying to do is make your camera think that it’s the bright parts of the picture you are most interested in.

Here’s how to do it:

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SilhouettesImage by No Pip No!

1. Choose a Strong Subject

Almost any object can be made into a silhouette, however some are better than others. Choose something with a strong and recognizable shape that will be interesting enough in its two dimensional form to hold the interest of those viewing your image. Silhouettes can’t draw on the colors, textures and tones of subjects to make them appealing – so the shape needs to be distinct.

2. Turn off your Flash

If you have your camera in automatic mode your camera will probably want to use its flash which will ruin the silhouette. Basically you want as little light on the front of your subject as possible – so the flash has to go (basic – but I’ve seen a few attempted silhouette shots with the flash firing).

3. Get Your Light Right

When it comes to lighting your subject you’ll need to throw out a lot of what you’ve learnt about normal photography and think a little backwards. Instead of lighting the front of your subject, in silhouettes you need to ensure that there is more light shining from the background than the foreground of your shot – or to put it another way – you want to light the back of your subject rather than the front. The perfect light for this is placing your subject in front of a sunset or sunrise – but really any bright light will be able to do the trick.

4. Frame your image

Frame your shot so you are shooting with your subject in front of a nice plain, but bright background. Usually the best backgrounds will be a bright cloudless sky with the sun setting. You want to position the brightest light source behind your subject (either so that they hide it or so that its in the background somewhere).

5. Make silhouetted shapes distinct and uncluttered

If there is more than one shape or object in the image that you’re attempting to silhouette, try to keep them separated. ie if you are silhouetting a tree and a person don’t have the person stand in front of the tree or even leaning on it as it will merge them into one shape and as a result your viewers could be confused about what the shape is.

Also when framing you’ll probably want to photograph silhouetted people as profiles rather than looking straight on. This means that more of their features (nose, mouth, eyes) are outlined and they are more likely to be recognized.

6. In Auto Mode

Most modern digital cameras have automatic metering which are pretty good at sensing how to expose a photograph so that everything is well lit. The problem with this is that most cameras are so smart that they will light up your subject instead of underexposing it to get a silhouette so you need to trick it. Most cameras work out the exposure levels in auto mode when you push your shutter half way down (at the same time that they focus). So point your camera at the brightest part of your picture and then press the shutter halfway down (don’t let go). Then move your camera back to frame your shot with the subject where you want it and then finish taking the shot. With most digital cameras this will result in a silhouetted subject. In effect what you’re doing is tricking your camera into thinking that the bright part of the image is the mid tone of it so that anything darker than it will be exposed as a nice dark shadow.

Some digital cameras also have ‘spot’ or ‘centered’ metering modes that you can switch on which helps with the above technique as they will set the metering on the central spot of your frame rather than multiple spots. This means you can accurately tell your camera exactly which bit of the bright background you want it to set the exposure on.

Silhouette-TipsImage by muha

7. Manual Mode

If this technique doesn’t work and your camera has controls to allow manual exposure or exposure compensation you might like to try some of your own settings. The beauty of digital is that you can experiment to your hearts content until you get the result you’re after.

A simple way to start using manual mode is to look at the shutter speed and aperture that it suggests in automatic mode and to start from there. If in auto mode your subject is too light (ie you need to make it darker) stop down the shutter speed a stop or two and see what impact that has. Use the ‘bracketing’ technique that I described in my previous tip on sunrises and sunsets to get a variety of shots at slightly different exposures.

8. Focusing

In most cases you’ll want the subject which is silhouetted to be the thing that is in focus most crisply. This can mean that the process described in point 4 can be a little tricky as pushing your shutter half way down to get the metering right also means that you’ll focus on that spot in the background. To get around this you can use two strategies. Firstly if your camera has manual focusing you might want to try that. Pre focus your shot before you meter your shot.

The other strategy is to use Aperture to maximize your depth of field (the amount of your image that is in focus). Set a small aperture (ie a larger number) to increase the depth of field – this means you’re more likely to have a sharper foreground and background in your shots.

One last tip on Silhouettes – while a total silhouette with a nice crisp and black subject can be a powerful shot, also consider the partial silhouette where some detail of your subject is left. Sometimes a touch of light on them makes them slightly more three dimensional and ‘real’. This is the beauty of bracketing your shots as it will leave you with total and partial silhouettes to choose form.

UPDATE: Check out these 12 Amazing Silhouette Example Shots.

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What were the First Rules and Lessons of Photography that You Learned?

First Lessons and Rules in Photography

Image by Jason Rust

Someone asked me this morning to give them a few tips on how to teach their child photography. They wanted to know what rules and tips they should be teaching their kids about how to use a camera.

The tips I gave were similar to this post I’ve written on lessons to teach kids about photography but his question also reminded me of some of the early lessons I was taught.

  • Probably the first thing I remember my parents telling me about the camera was ‘don’t take too many pictures’. This was of course in the days of film and there was a real cost involved in each frame that I took.
  • Other lessons/rules accompanied that advice – “hold the camera still” was one (I remember this one because it came after my parents had a whole role of blurry pictures developed).
  • Another that came out of another roll of bad shots was “get close to the person you’re taking a picture of” (36 shots of people that you could barely recognise due to them being like dots on a horizon).
  • And then there was the role of shots I’d taken on a beach holiday where all my landscapes had the horizon sloping down to either the right or left – “hold your camera straight” being the rule I learned.
  • Then in high school I remember learning some more ‘formal’ rules in a photography class I took. The Rule of Thirds was probably the one that I remembered and used the most.
  • It turns out that most of these ‘rules’ have stayed with me and did help me improve my images.

    What about you? What were the early Rules and Lessons You learned when you were just starting out taking pictures – perhaps even childhood lessons?

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5 Tips on How to Utilize Facebook for Your Photography Brand

In this post by Julia May PhotoInterview.ru we look at the topic of how Facebook can be used by Photographers. By the way – don’t forget to ‘like’ the dPS Facebook Page to keep in touch with our latest updates.

facebook.jpegMany of you have probably been hooked with Google+ lately and no wonder why. Featuring a unique approach to images, this social network looks as if it was created for photographers.

Thanks to James Brandon you already know why photographers should love Google+ and Twitter, but what about Facebook? Does it have anything to be loved for? Hell yea! Facebook’s appeal for your photography career is too big to be ignored. Let’s study some of the key benefits Facebook provides for photographers and some simple tactics to promote your photography brand on world’s largest social network.

Go where people are: many of them are on Facebook right now!

With its recent phenomenon, Google has snatched a big piece of cake from Facebook and even Twitter. Some public personalities and celebrities fuel the fire by officially ditching Facebook for Google Plus. However, there are at least two reasons why you should not abandon Facebook in favor of Google+:

  • It’s still an early stage for G+, and it’s still got a lot to do before it can challenge Facebook in terms of user base and functionality.
  • Facebook and Google+ are complements rather than substitutes to each other. Google+ has circles, Hurdle and Hagouts, which makes it great for networking and learning. Facebook has Pages, Apps, and Ads, which makes it great for brand building and interaction with your audience.

You already know how to get the most out of Google+, now let’s look at some technics for increasing your brand visibility and influence on Facebook.

Create a page and customize it

As opposed to Google+, Facebook gives opportunity to create public presence to both individuals and entities. “But it’s just me and my camera, do I still need a page besides my personal profile?”, you may ask. The answer is yes, definitely. As long as a brand is concerned, a page gives several advantages over a profile, including public visibility on the Internet, unlimited number of people who can connect with you and receive your updates in their news feeds (you can have 5000 friends, and countless fans – isn’t it cool?), and ability to customize your page.

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You can find “Create a Page” link in the bottom of any page on Facebook.

The latter is especially relevant for photographers, as you can have your portfolio right on Facebook. There are lots of Facebook page editors available on the Web now, but I’d like to suggest one that I believe fits photographer needs perfectly. It’s MotoFanPages, a free app that allows adding a full-fledged Flash website on your Facebook page in literally several clicks. You get to choose from a variety of design templates, which you can then modify and fill with your content using an integrated content management system. The entire setup takes three steps, and you can also add a so-called fan gate to your page, which enables you to address your new visitors that are not yet fans with a call-to-action message. That’s pretty much for a free tool, isn’t it?

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MotoFanPages is a quick way to publish your photo portfolio on Facebook.

Make the most out of Facebook’s internal apps

Unlike Google+, Facebook hosts an enormous directory of applications. However, Facebook apps aren’t limited to Zynga’s opiate games third-party products, some of them come standard on your profile and page and it’s up to you whether to take value out of them or not. Here are a few tips on how photographers can utilize Facebook natural apps:
- Don’t leave the Info tab blank. Fill it with your biography, contact info and testimonials. Facebook pages are indexed by search engines, so plugging keywords here and there might work.
- Tag your clients and relevant pages in the Photos. This will automatically send your picture in their news feeds and keep the circles on water going. Note, that you can’t tag people when you are logged in as Page. Pages can tag pages, people can tag people – this is how it works.

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Use Facebook suggestion feature to tag clients, related pages, and communities in your photo.

  • Ask Questions to get advice from your fans and friends. Asking something interesting or even holy-war questions, like “What’s better, Canon or Nikon?”, you can get your question really viral and put your name in front of many pairs of eyes.
  • Add Notes and open Discussions to interact with your audience and receive feedback. Why not use Notes to post some short photography tips, for example? Give value to your community and peeps will most likely give it back to you by subscribing to your updates and spreading the word about your business.

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Di Fruscia makes a good use of the Notes app on his page.

Do Facebook ads

Most likely, we will all see this coming to Google+ at some point. Meanwhile, you can give your photography brand an additional boost using Facebook advertising. Don’t worry, it doesn’t necessarily mean big expenses. With the right targeting and message, you can get it be as much or as low as you want. Facebook ads deserve a separate post. A few tips to help you get started:

  • Have something cool to advertise. Exclusive photo session, discount on services, or print giveaway are good causes to run an advertising campaign. Linking your ad to your home page you’re likely to waste your money.
  • Set your Max Bid to a bit lower value than Facebook suggests you. Facebook’s suggested bids are often exaggerated. If it recommends a $1 bid, you may safely make it $0.25 and see the results. If you have set a very specific targeting, you can have a fairly good exposure for 25 cents.
  • Make use of Facebook targeting options: by addressing smaller groups of people, you can have higher click-through-rate.

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  • Use compelling images for your ads, as Facebook conversions depend primarily on images. I recommend you to create about ten versions of your ad, varying images, titles and copy, and run them by turn during equal periods of time. This way you will see which ads are the most effective and worth spending money.

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Your ad should be compliant with Facebook Advertising Guidelines.

Create polls and contests

According to various surveys, from 34% to 57% of people like a brand on Facebook because they want discounts and special offers. Sweepstakes and contests are proven ways to attract people’s attention to your profile. However, remember that quantity is not always better than quality. Giving away an iPad you will probably get twice as more fans as you would get giving away your limited edition print, but the effectiveness of the iPad-driven crowd is questionable.

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British horror photographer Daniel Tunstall gives away a limited edition print to everyone who posts a creative idea on her Facebook wall or Twitter page.

Add Facebook social plugins to your website and/or blog

Facebook offers a line of nine social plugins, but there are only three of them I would recommend you to install on your photography website:

  • Like button. Of course! The mechanism of social proof is becoming an inevitable part of the modern Internet. The recent Google +1 button is another proof of this trend. Adding the Like button next to your photos, you kill two birds with one stone (seriously, who came up with this metaphor?) – you get people to share your works and at the same time, you have another source of feedback.
  • Comments. Many respectable blogs and newspapers, such as TechCrunch and Boston.com, have switched to Facebook Comments and are quite happy about this decision. The matter is that Facebook’s commenting plugin involves a unique comment syncing mechanism. Basically, if a person leaves the “Post to Facebook” box checked when they post a comment, a mention about this appears in their friends’ News Feed, and if someone responds to the discussion by liking or replying to the comment in the News Feed, this actions is displayed on your website as well. In other words, people can leave comments on your posts right from Facebook – imagine the potential of this feature when applied on your site!

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Facebook Comments is a great tool to share your content with max efficiency.

  • Like box. This is a good way to notify visitors to your website that you are presented on Facebook. Unlike the Like button (I hope you like wordplay), this plugin enables people to like your Facebook page without visiting it. Another two birds are killed with one stone – users like your page and don’t go from your site. Just make sure you disclose Stream and Show Faces options when generating your Like Box plugin code. This way, your website visitors will not get distracted by photos and links displayed in the like box, and thus, are more likely to stay longer on your website.

In conclusion I’d like to say that the best way to promote your name on Facebook or any other social network, is to provide people with great content. They come there to see your amazing images, and once they are amazed, they will like it, +1 it, and tweet it, for sure.

Julia May is a social media enthusiast and blogger, whose interest in photography results in PhotoInterview.ru, a blog dedicated to the interviews with talented photographers from all over the world.

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Embrace the Grain! [What I Learned from Shooting with Film: Part 3]

In this post Rachel Devine (author of our new kids photography eBook Click) continues to share her five reasons learning photography on film cameras made her the digital photographer that she is today. Also Read Part 1 on Shooting with Burst Mode and Part 2 on Natural vs Artificial Light

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In the days when film was the only option for photographers, even 200 ISO gave your images some grain. Grain gave the image texture and now it seems that grain has become a naughty word in the world of kid portrait photography.

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I have mentored many photographers who have told me that they try never to shoot over 320 ISO and really 400 is a number that makes them twitch. When I have asked “Why?” each and every time the answer has been “noise.” So many images of children are then polished into this weird digital plastic sheen that they end up looking more like dolls than real live children. Kids are naturally pretty smooth and childhood can get gritty (and sandy and chocolate covered etc…) but that is wonderfully real.

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And just think of the benefits! You will have a lot more wiggle room with your exposure settings when you try working in the higher ISO ranges allowing you to shoot with faster shutter speed equation formulas and capture the motion of high energy kids in lower light. Or even their moments of stillness in extremely low light.

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I know that the grain of the old silver particles is not the exact same thing as the noise of your DSLR, but there are a few things that you can do to get the best results possible.

The essential key to working with digital noise as grain is to get the image exposure right in the camera. The more under exposed the image is, the muddier it will look and the more the noise will be working against you. This is really how one should be striving to shoot children’s portraits anyway, but it is worth repeating here.

The second thing to help is a beautiful black and white conversion process for your editing routine. Turning the grainy image into black and white tends to unify the look of the noise as it removes any distracting colored pixels. It is also really reminiscent of the old old films.

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Now sometimes this is an element of style and no one can tell another photographer what their style choices should be, but if the fear of digital noise making your images look bad is holding you back, I encourage you to celebrate the freckles, embrace the grain and shoot over 400 ISO once and a while.

For more on the topic of Kids Photogrpahy – Check out Rachel’s new eBook Click! How to Take Gorgeous Photos of Your Kids.

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Save 30% on our New Kids Photography eBook and Get a Chance to Win a DSLR

Click_cover4.jpgOne week ago today here on dPS we launched our brand new Kids Photogrpahy eBook – Click! How to take Gorgeous Photos of Your Kids.

‘The response to this eBook has been amazing – over the weekend we received a lot of ‘thanks for the eBook’ emails from readers and really encouraging reviews are beginning to appear around the web with people saying some really lovely things about the content that its author – Rachel Devine – has put together.

Win a Brand New DSLR

To celebrate the release of the eBook we’ve decided to add to the 30% off launch discount and to run a little competition to give away a brand new DSLR camera (and lens) to one lucky buyer of the eBook.

The inspiration for the giveaway was comments from a number of readers like this one:

“This eBook is inspiring me want to upgrade my camera and get more into my photography!”

While Click! is an eBook written for people with all kinds of cameras we’ve decided to help make that dream come true for one lucky reader… and are going to buy them a brand new DSLR and lens to practice their kids photography.

We’re putting up a Canon EOS Rebel T3i and 18-55mm lens – over $1,000 (RRP)!

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It is a camera that is used by many of our readers and we think it will make a great companion to our eBook.

All you need to do it order Click! before 19 October and you’re in the running.

This competition is open to our international audience around the world and anyone who has already purchased the eBook is already in the running and doesn’t need to do anything more to enter.

So Here is the Deal in a Nutshell

Buy Click! before 19 October and you get:

  1. 30% off the Click! – worth $29.99 but for a limited time just $19.99
  2. An Entry into the DSLR giveaway

Plus (and most importantly) you’ll come away from reading the eBook with the inspiration and knowledge to take some amazing photographs of the kids in your life.

As this post goes up you have 3 weeks to take advantage of this offer – so don’t hesitate and pick up your copy of Click here today!!

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Article source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DigitalPhotographySchool/~3/RtxcW_JdG-Q/save-30-on-our-new-kids-photography-ebook-and-get-a-chance-to-win-a-dslr